‘Fade to Grey’: Mithridate’s SS27 collection turns heads

Over 46 looks, Creative Director Daniel Fletcher mixes Victorian and Edwardian military dress with theatre costumes, corsets and fringe scarves. Each look feels fresh and unique, with clear intention and design allowing the pieces to shine. Sophia Katyea described “off duty prom glamour” across the latter half of the show, with traditional formal wear subverted by almost out-of-place cumberbunds and exaggerated silhouettes. Oversized military-style Bicorn hats (by Noel Stuart) dominated the show, somehow not feeling overpowering despite their presence. 

A t-shirt dress made an appearance at the end of the show, resplendent in white and cream, accessorised with a simple gold necklace, tights and black lace up shoes. It marked a sharp departure from the previous look, a butter yellow maxi dress paired with a white hat. Mithridate’s iconic numerical motifs made several appearances, notably across scarves and button up shirts. Oversized blazers, tutus and knee-high socks make up just some of Fletcher’s skillful play on 80s fashion. 

In four consecutive designs, teal is paired with a plethora of other shades. The most effective of these are pastel pink and blue, creating a strong visual link with the 1980s in a bold yet sophisticated way. Silk shirts walk alongside more adventurous silhouettes, with the collection teasing an idea of nostalgic and simultaneously futuristic formal wear. Ballerina motifs are present throughout, capitalising on one of social media’s favourite trends, and placing Mithridate as a brand that can keep up with their modern audience. 

The brand is described as “defined by intuition, not convention”, and their SS27 collection showcases this excellently. 

“When I talk about being defined by intuition and not convention, I was thinking specifically about the New Romantic movement and how people were putting outfits together in a way that went against conventional ways of dressing. The same can be said for how I work at Mithridate; traditional garments are twisted into something new, or paired with things that belong in a different wardrobe all together, but in a way that is unique to our visual language.” – Daniel Fletcher

Constant reference is made to modern trends, while nostalgia is utilised to bring the New Romantics to the forefront of fashion design. Fletcher was appointed as Creative Director in 2025, aiming to redefine the “Made in China” label and bring the Chinese brand to Western audiences without diluting its identity.