The Original Colours of Dior Perfumes have been Restored

The Dioriginals Project led by Francis Kurkdjian, focuses on 13 iconic Dior fragrance compositions from Edmond Roudnitska’s major classics to more recent creations. Working with the Dior perfume Creative Studio, he patiently and respectfully undertook the restoration of each of these compositions in order to restore them to their original brilliance.

While perfume formulas can be preserved on paper, in contrast, the ingredients are ever-changing, variable materials with an unpredictable nature, leading to subtle variations and modifications, altering its facets. Francis Kurkdjian has decided to restore the full brilliance and luster of 13 of the Dior perfumes that have shaped the history of the House for almost 80 years, with a remarkable, rich collection of olfactory masterpieces and daring compositions.

It was necessary to wait until olfactory heritage was considered – at least intellectually – as an artistic heritage requiring creativity as well as ongoing developments, techniques and expertise. Among these changes, regulatory, toxicology and environmental standards have evolved towards standardisation since, leading to an ever-evolving list of prohibited ingredients, gradually modifying the shift in formulas accumulating over time.

Kurkdjian observed these changes, that these house defining fragrances had suffered from a form of “erosion” specific to perfumery. Raw material suppliers and international suppliers can no longer be relied on, and above all, the perfumers who have passed away can no longer guarantee the integrity of their composition. It was essential these “endangered species” were restored.

“A perfume should be cherished and looked after like a fragile work of art that is subject to the vagaries of time….To recreate the “landscape” of a great Dior fragrance in all its former brilliance, I set out to recover their original formulas and restore the perfect harmony of their compositions.”  Francis Kurkdjian, Perfume Creation Director.

The collection spans two eras: the Grasse period (1949-1970), anchored by Edmond Roudnitska’s groundbreaking work – including Diorama, Eau Fraîche, and Diorissimo, the legendary lily-of-the-valley composition Christian Dior himself considered a masterpiece – alongside Paul Vacher’s leather chypre Diorling and Roudnitska’s later Diorella. The Paris era (1979-2003) brought a different sensibility, from Max Gavarry’s “barbaric” oriental Dioressence and Jean Martel’s rugged Jules, to Dune’s ozonic 1990s signature, Pierre Bourdon’s gourmand Dolce Vita, and early-2000s scents like Higher and Higher Energy that captured Hedi Slimane-era urban edge.

Kurkdjian’s restoration work involved recreating banned ingredients like ambrette musk and civet through modern alternatives, while sourcing higher-quality natural materials – Nepalese sandalwood, Turkish Damask rose – to sharpen notes that had faded or shifted over time. The collection revives the original 1948 “Ovale” bottle, now updated with a CD-monogrammed metal ring, tying the brand’s earliest visual identity to this revival.