The Hottest Menswear This Season: Paris SS27

DAY 1:

Louis Vuitton predicted the heat wave

Pharrell Williams tapped into surfing culture and did it in the perfect moment, presenting on the hottest day marked in French history.

Models entered the show through a giant wave made of circulating water. The whole set design looked like a beach scene with sticky sand underfoot and water hitting the shore. And all of it acting in a cause of supporting the ocean conservation group Coral Gardeners in French Polynesia. 

The looks and accessories blended perfectly with the beachy scenario. Models looked as if they just stepped out of the LA water, carrying Louis Vuitton branded surfboards and shell-shaped bags. Pharell went so far as to include wetsuits on the runway. In all, silhouettes were relaxed: lightweight jackets, loose trousers, paired with jeans or shorts, all in hues of pastel and sand.

The styling mixed the beachwear with the house’s dandy legacy. Hand-spun textures, sun-worn fabrics and sea-inspired embellishments gave the looks a worn-in, coastal feeling, while technical pieces and nonchalant tailoring built upon the heritage of the house. Everything created a balanced look that could move easily between city and beach without having to compromise on style.

Saint Laurent gave proportions power

At the Bourse de Commerce, Saint Laurent models stepped out of a fog installation by Fujiko Nakaya in the “V” shaped silhouettes. Vaccarello placed the focus firmly on the shoulders, with each look narrowing through the waist and lengthening the body into a clean line.

Sheer tops, bare-chested waistcoats and fine layers kept the clothes light, while the proportions did most of the work. The silhouette tapered all the way down to elongated translucent shoes, a direction not seen before in menswear footwear. The collection was power dressing in its lightest form, completely stripped of stiffness.

After the lights went down, the mood carried into Club Confessions for the Saint Laurent afterparty. Guests danced to Madonna, building up their strengths for the next day ahead. 

DAY 2:

Dior hosted a house party

This season Jonathan Anderson turned Dior back towards music and the aftermath of a night out. He went full on youth, inspired by the French kids dressing up: “Rave culture is coming back, I see it on the Seine, 7 am in the morning, something is changing,” he says. The show merged references to ravers, glam rock, 1700s and the golden era of masquerade balls, creating archetypes that overlap to create a not-so-perfect, but still expensive-looking silhouette.

The first model to open the show stepped out in complete silence. Plugging the aux into the speakers he set the tone; it felt like arriving at a house party right before it starts. The looks consisted of deconstructed jackets, exposed inner layers and elongated tailoring with embroidery drawn from Dior’s archive. Followed by Pyjama-like suits, fringed jackets and softened shirts, garments felt as if they had already lived through the night. 

The invite was also a disco ball – everything reinforced the storytelling of a glamorous, slightly dishevelled house party with echoes of Dior’s Slimane-era energy and glam rock, including twists on the legendary SS06 jeans and skinnier silhouettes. All those references unfolded naturally, so instead of simply revisiting the 2000s, the show made Dior’s heritage feel restless and ready to go out again, all in line with the image of a modern and contemporary Dior man.

Graphpaper left space for time

During the busy schedule Graphpaper brought us all a moment to slow down. With its Spring/Summer 2027 presentation, titled What Time Leaves Behind, the brand focused on beauty that gets stronger with time, looking at how fabrics change through wear, colour and texture instead of relying on obvious Japanese references.

The silhouettes followed the concept of yohaku – an empty space with modern structure and functionality. Pieces were built around that with material and subtle colours reinforcing the concept. The collection felt less about one big statement and more about garments that slowly become better the more they are worn, focusing on the cut and tailoring. 

Set inside a space in the Marais, the installation built the story further. White aged porcelain, moss green, weathered wood beige and ink black shaped the whole space, all inspired by the four key colors of natural textures. Custom fragrance, porcelain vases and small treats turned the presentation into a journey of taste, smell and sight, creating a world where time is something that adds value.

DAY 3:

Feng Chen Wang was Dreaming of Spring

This season, Feng Chen Wang focused on contrast: merging menswear with womenswear, strength with softness and workwear with romanticism. “These should have been two separate visions. Yet somehow, they appeared in the same dream.” The collection stayed true to the brand’s deconstructed language, mixed with a more emotional feeling and added retro-futuristic edge. 

It fused eastern and western influences, oversized silhouettes and innovative high-performance materials from the debut Under Armour collaboration. The ancient Chinese red brought the momentum with the whole concept being rooted in the story of The Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove.

Wide trousers, cropped jackets and loose shirts were paired with elongated straps, wrapped waist details and draped pieces that moved around the body. Technical jackets came in soft satin-like fabrics, while denim looked faded, twisted and reconstructed. 

Tatras moved with the Sea

Wind on one side, water on the other: two forces that shape both the sea and the Tatras’ new collection. Taking inspiration from Hiroshi Sugimoto’s seascapes and Gualtiero Redivo sail-like structures, the collection studied how materials change when exposed to movement, weather and time.

The wind set the tone for the lighter pieces, inspiring volume, transparency and motion. The result was sheer nylons, fluid silk ripstops and layered transparencies. Water brought weight and texture through garment dyed cottons, waxed technical surfaces, membranes and lightweight outerwear, standing for protection, adaptation and endurance. 

Combining those two environments, the collection formed a wardrobe designed for movement across any conditions. Mix of soft and flowy layers made for days when the forecast changes before lunch ends.

CDLP redefined the classics

Between the shows and presentations, CDLP opened its showroom to reveal a new collection of elevated essentials. Founded in 2016 with the aim to revolutionize men’s underwear, the Swedish label has since explored innovative techniques and future-oriented materials, building its identity around refined basics.  

The new collection presented in Paris was the exact extension of this vision: striped linen shirts, crewneck tees and tailored shirt-jackets, all made of exceptionally soft and breathable fabrics. 

For a brand that has never been about being loud, the CDLP’s version of quiet luxury is all about the details and quality you notice while wearing the pieces. It offers the more sustainable approach luxury fashion needs.