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At Tate Britain, Daniel Fletcher’s Autumn/Winter 2026 collection traces a journey between Guangzhou and the Thames, where heritage and craft converge.

By Amelia Whearty, February 2026

Mithridate Plants new Roots

On the banks of the River Thames at Tate Britain, Mithridate staged a story about arrival. 

 

Autumn Winter 2026, Daniel Fletcher’s third runway outing for the house, unfolded as a quiet meditation on movement. A lone figure wanders, gathering fragments of a new life along the riverbed. Wild flowers surface where you might not expect them. Objects become anchors. The wardrobe builds slowly, shaped by encounter.

It mirrors the brand’s own reality. Mithridate, founded in Guangzhou, now finds itself firmly rooted in London. The relocation to Borough, a short walk from the market and the river, marked more than a change of postcode. It signals a recalibration. Fletcher understands that duality well. His own journey with the brand has unfolded between cities, negotiating identity in transit.

The collection leans into that exchange. On the runway, British codes surface with control. Tweed coats carry broader shoulders and sit over assured tailoring. Naval references appear in reworked pea coats, while Aran and Fair Isle knitwear nod to heritage without feeling nostalgic. These pieces are offset by printed skirts and subtle embellishments, a contrast that has become central to Fletcher’s approach.

Details anchor the collection in its new surroundings. Bottle green prints and enlarged merchant labels reference Borough’s market history. Eveningwear arrives with ease, softened and layered beneath duffle coats. A hand beaded overcoat catches the light with restraint.

There is a new confidence here. Mithridate feels at home on the Thames, its identity sharpened rather than diluted by distance travelled.