The UDGN Cultural Threads SS26 Showcase descended upon Ladbroke Hall, transforming the historic space into a vibrant nexus of heritage and bold innovation.
By Phillza Mirza

LFW: UDGN SS26 Showcase Crowns a New Era of Global Design

The energy was palpable, the lively, chattering, and well-dressed audience gathered beneath red spotlights and an exposed ceiling, ready for a display that promised to be much more than a fashion show, it was a statement. With the runway entrance down a stately staircase and the rhythm of Amapiano setting the mood for each designer the event achieved its aim: putting global minority design talent front and centre.

The showcase presented 16 collections rooted largely in Nigerian and Yoruba legacy, demonstrating that tradition is not a cage, but a powerful foundation for the future. Recurring motifs, including glitter threading, shells, and the rich textile Aso-Oke, created a cohesive narrative across diverse artistic visions.

MOTUNRAYO by Motunrayo Yetunde Ajayi

@shop_motunrayo Tide Spirit Fringe Gown

Motúnráyọ̀ presented a collection titled “Of Water and Spirit,” which serves as a ritual of return rooted in the Osun Festival of Nigeria’s Yoruba tradition. The pieces are designed to be powerful narratives, channeling ancestral memory through bold silhouettes and sacred symbolism. The theme, inspired by Oshun, the goddess of fertility and beauty, translated beautifully through material like shimmering tulle and coral beads, which are seen as the currency of memory. The collection reimagines the ancestral spectacle of masquerade, making spiritual heritage visible and wearable.

Model walks on the catwalk during UDGN, Unity in Design Global Network SS26 Showcase

AYAH by Ayah Ebimobowei

@ayahintl Skipper

AYAH, a menswear brand, offered “The Fisherman’s Echo,” a meditation inspired by the quiet strength and riverside life of the Niger Delta people of Nigeria. The collection features fluid, relaxed, yet intentional silhouettes, including wide-legged trousers that mimic waves and mesh/fishnet textures symbolising fishing nets. Earthy tones ground the collection in heritage, while cowries shells (symbolising spiritual protection and wealth) redefine Black masculinity through softness and power.

Model walks on the catwalk during UDGN, Unity in Design Global Network SS26 Showcase

ZUBERE by Nancy Chizubere Johnson-Chiadiadi

@zu_be_re Hero Onyeoma (The Heritage Grass Skirt Ensemble)

“ỤLỌ NWAANYỊ” (The Woman’s Homecoming) is a visual celebration inspired by the ceremonial entrance of the Igbo bride. The collection captures the reverence surrounding the bride through layers meaning and dignity. Key materials include custom-made traditional Igbo fabric featuring a Lion motif symbolising ancestral royalty and strength) and tiered raffia fringe inspired by Igbo dance skirts. Coral beads mark the wearer as a woman of pride.

Model walks on the catwalk during UDGN, Unity in Design Global Network SS26 Showcase

MIDETUSH by Oyewunmi

@midetushbespoke Desert Stripe Cowrie Collar Jacket and Cargo Pant

“Air & Stripes” presents a contemporary homage blending Yoruba heritage with modern urban style for cities like Lagos or London. Olumide Oyewumi uses bold stripes and breathable silhouettes, reinterpreting traditional Aso-Oke through clean tailoring. Standout streetwear pieces, like the Desert Stripe Cargo Pant, feature cowrie shell accents and frayed edges.

BOLA by Omobolanle Sulleman

@bolasulleman Ancestors Frame

“Inheritance” is inspired by the regal spectacle of the Ojude Oba Festival of Ijebuland. The collection focuses on slow fashion and refined minimalism, blending strength and softness through architectural silhouettes. The palette centers on navy, gold, and cornflour blue Aso-Oke, chosen to represent nobility, serenity, and the glowing continuity of lineage.

KAYPEE FOOTWEARS by Kolapo Omoyoloye

@kaypeefootwears The Red Earth Mule

“ÀPÁTA – Legacy Footwear” is born from the rugged textures of the Yoruba Land. Kolapo Omoyoloye’s vision blends cultural expression with utility, creating designs like the Red Earth Mule, which fuses Aso-Ake inspired fabric with a bold platform sole. The collection is a tribute to ancestral paths and the unshakeable spirit of the powerful man (Alágbàra).

Model walks on the catwalk during UDGN, Unity in Design Global Network SS26 Showcase

JERMAINE BLEU by Jason Jermaine Asiedu

@jermainebleu

“Twas Me Foto (Take My Photo)” is a joyful letter to self-expression, personal style, and the tradition of dressing up. It features vintage hues and romantic flair, specifically intended to capture moments meant to last forever.

ROBES AND BLINGS by Akokomali (RBA) by (Olaitan Maria Olatoke)

@robesandblingsbyakokomali Ejire (Twin Flame of Strength and Seduction)

“TÍWA N TÍWA (Ours is Ours)” reclaims the controversial Yoruba white cloth ritual as a symbol of resilience and pride. The luxurious robes feature hand-stitched details like crystals, cowries, and deep red broken royal beads. Sculpted silhouettes proclaim that a woman’s body and story are her own, making bridal preparation a sacred rite.

LEKAN AARE by Lekan Taofeek Folarin

@lekan_aare Ejire (Homage to the King)

“Homage to the King” pays tribute to Yoruba nobility and the regal spirit of the Ojude Oba Festival. The Lagos-born menswear label translates this heritage through clean tailoring, sharp silhouettes, and a rich colour palette (deep navy, cream, ochre, sand) grounded by classic linen stripes.

Model walks on the catwalk during UDGN, Unity in Design Global Network SS26 Showcase

PEM by Princess Ene Mary Obeya

@pem.couture Anebi

“The Spirit Wears Red” is a contemporary homage to the Idioma peoples of Benue State. Drawing inspiration from dance festivals, the collection celebrates Idioma’s striking use of red and black (symbols of vitality and strength). Silhouettes balance structure and fluidity, using layered textures, fringe, and cowries to honour ancestral memory.

OOM0 AJADI by Yusuf Kareem

@oomoajadi WALKING LINEAGE (Drape Robe with Color-Tipped Staff and Akete Crown)

“White Oracle: The Eko Spirit Walks” pays tribute to the sacred procession of the Ẹyọ Masquerade from Lagos Island. The menswear collection abstracts ancestral codes into modern minimalism, using flowing white fabrics to evoke spiritual purity. Structures details recall the masquerader’s upright grace, embodying stillness and spiritual power for the 21st century.

OBIREEN by Salami Oluwaseun

@obireen IDIA gown

“Okpa n’Iyoba – Strength of a queen” is a contemporary tribute to Queen Idiaa of Benin. His pieces translate historic royal regalia into modern ceremony wear, utilising a palette of coral red and deep burgundy that mirrors the sacred coral beads of Benin royalty. Silhouettes are bold and sculpted, framing womanhood as both protector and ruler.

Model walks on the catwalk during UDGN, Unity in Design Global Network SS26 Showcase

THE IDEAL CRAFTSMAN by Olutoba Odetomu

@theidealcraftsman

“The Five” is a refined, symbolic homage to Yoruba spirituality, inspired by five orishas. It fuses tailored classics with quiet power, merging cultural depth and contemporary elegance. The brand, launched in 2022, has gained a reputation for its sharp aesthetic, clean cuts, and commitment to quality. The Lagos-based menswear label aims to redefine modern elegance for the African man. Designer Olutoba Odetomu grounds the brand in structure, polish, and quiet confidence.

ANKU by Kelvin Vincent

@ankustudio

“Woven Stories” is the latest collection by designer Kelvin Vincent. It traces the designer’s ancestry across the Ewe and Akan peoples. The collection layers textures and tones to tell a story of intergenerational wisdom and cultural pride.

Model walks on the catwalk during UDGN, Unity in Design Global Network SS26 Showcase

ITELE by Seyi Agboola

@itele.uk

Itele is a luxury footwear brand founded by Seyi Agboola, rooted in Nigerian heritage and now based in the UK. The brand redefines African craftsmanship through timeless men’s loafers, fusing artisanal skill with clean, modern design to balance elegance, comfort, and cultural integrity. The newest collection, “Freedom,” tells the story of Nigeria’s journey from colonial influence to independence, utilising bold forms and rich textiles to honour resilience, national pride, and unity.

TWIN by Tare Isaac

@twinbytare

“In My Blood” is a three-chapter story rooted in Ijaw tribal legacy, memory, and cultural heritage passed down through the maternal line. The featured capsule, “The Water Bearers,” is a fluid homage to the Ijaw people’s relationship with the sea and fishing heritage, capturing themes of abundance and erosion in flowing silhouettes. This capsule, which was featured in the showcase, evoked movement, feminine power, and ancestral storytelling. The Water Bearers also features the haunting symbol of a siren rising from polluted waters, representing spirit and survival.

The UDGN Cultural Threads SS26 Showcase, closing with UDGN Founder Tare Isaac presenting her TWIN collection, was a powerful moment in London Fashion Week. It underlines the crucial importance of creating visibility for minority talent and demonstrates a unified vision despite the carried inspiration. By focusing heavily on Nigerian heritage, the collections skillfully translates deep ancestral codes, from the rugged textures of Yorubaland to the regal power of benin and the Delta’s quiet strength, onto a global stage. The runway proved that culture and craft, when delivered with confidence, create timeless elegance and powerful statements from the present and future.

Writer Phillza Mirza

Special thanks to I.DEA PR @i.dea.pr

Show Credits

Makeup

Loretta Agyemang @luxebylorey

Sarah Agbiji @modernwand

Josephine Blades @allurefacesuk

Amber Wilson @amberwilsonmua

Morẹ́nikẹ́Akinnawonu @madeup.bymo

Ana Rocha @anarocha_makeup_

Sindi Zulu @sindsbeauty

Daniela Le @haiyenglam