By Olive Walton, September 2025
40 years of MBFW Madrid: A Celebration of Legacy and a Renewed Commitment to Shaping the Future of Fashion
Sat inside Madrid’s impressive City Hall–a 20th century building known as the Palacio de Cibeles, reflecting the sky through the beautiful vaulted windows above us–we find ourselves in what was once a mail-sorting room. Today, City Hall has transformed into a catwalk for the “Desfiles en la Ciudad” (Fashion Shows in the City) initiative, around which Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) Madrid is concentrating its OFF fashion shows. This is just the beginning of the 40th anniversary program packed with talented showcases ranging from established local designers, to international guests and emerging creatives, reflecting one of the key values MBFW Madrid is trying to embrace this season onward: a commitment to establishing itself as a major player on the international fashion scene. And celebrating both international designers and Spanish craftsmanship while nurturing new talent, they aim to create a dialogue between multiple generations of designers, strengthening support and sharing knowledge.
OFF Fashion Shows: Transforming the Iconic Palacio de Cibeles into the Opening Day Backdrop for MBFW Madrid
Opening the day’s shows was Silvia Tcherassi, international guest designer from Colombia, (and winner of the 40th Anniversary MBFWM International Designer Prize) an intentional choice that set the tone for the week, underscoring Madrid’s ambition to position itself as a global fashion capital. Tcherassi has made her mark on the fashion industry internationally, having previously shown at Milan and Paris Fashion weeks and having established boutiques in Europe, North America and Latin America. This year also marks the 10th anniversary of her Madrid boutique. The show, which debuted her Spring 2026 collection, was characterised by its bold, colourful patterns, striking gold hardware, elegant draping and fringe detailing. The Sorrentino collection, named after Italian film director, Paolo Sorrentino, drew inspiration from the colour palette of his films, demonstrated through the use of warm, earthy tones, elegantly painted onto the fabric and gracefully draped throughout the collection.
Pedro Del Hierro’s collection reflected a desire to feel transported within your own city. Inspired by endless summer nights, this collection centred around spontaneity and the feeling of finding a new perspective within the already familiar. The Spanish menswear brand showcased day-to-night versatility, from traditional office wear, including expertly tailored suits and shirts, to more contemporary interpretations featuring playful twists on classic pieces, such as bright colours, blended fabrics, and sheer materials. This colour palette, inspired by the hues of a sunset, was also reflected in the womenswear section of the collection, featuring beautifully tailored power suits as well as glamorous evening gowns. A striking consistency emerged with the reinterpretation of a gold beaded piece, repeatedly constructed as bags, straps, necklaces, and even connected into a material worn as a top. This reinforced the collection’s theme of day-to-night transformation, highlighting the idea of a single piece being reimagined and repurposed to tell different stories.
Palomo Spain made a grand return to MBFW Madrid, hosting the catwalk at the Palace Hotel, a lavish location that exemplified the spectacle of the show, which featured bold, gender-defying pieces. This striking choice of venue also reinforced MBFW’s global reach by showcasing the collection in an internationally renowned luxury hotel, whose extravagant interiors complemented the opulent designs on display. Palomo’s collection, titled Eighteen, marked the of brand’s return to MBFW Madrid and introduced its first-ever womenswear line. Grounded in the belief that “aesthetics transcend gender” (Palomo, 2026), the collection featured shared pieces across menswear and womenswear, challenging traditional binaries. Highlights included short shorts and the versatile signature bow piece worn as a tie, scarf, hat, shawl, headwear and belt, which deservingly earned the National Talent Award, establishing Palomo as one of the most influential voices of his generation.
Adolfo Domínguez’s collection, Zenit, “explores the tension between two opposing gestures: letting go and holding on” (Adolfo Domínguez, 2026). This concept is demonstrated through the deliberately incomplete draping and lingering fringes at the hem of certain pieces, evoking a sense of controlled imperfection within the design. This elegant ambiguity, combined with the sleek tailoring of the garments, encapsulates the tension at the heart of the collection. The clean and precise aesthetic seen throughout Zenit reflects a strong consistency with Domínguez’s brand DNA overall, celebrating timeless design over fleeting trends while still achieving a powerful visual impact. Standout pieces on the runway included oversized, structured outerwear and experimental tailoring applied to traditional garments such as shirts, offering a quiet nod to the collection’s underlying contrast.
Closing the first day and mirroring the geometric elegance of the Palacio de Cibeles glass ceiling, Simorra’s Fractal collection delivered a minimalist, geometry-inspired offering designed for women of all ages. This commitment to generational inclusivity was reinforced by a diverse casting of models across age groups, echoing the brand’s dedication to representation. Architectural silhouettes, clean lines and kaleidoscopic patterns were paired with sheer fabrics, statement jewellery and bold handbags, creating strong structural forms that were softened by a delicate and wearable execution.
Highlights from the IFEMA Shows
Following the impressive opening of the MBFW SS26 showcase, the subsequent days (September 18-20) showcased an equally exciting combination of established and emerging talent at IFEMA, a longtime venue for Madrid Fashion Week. Proudly providing a platform for young designers inside, the EGO showroom highlighted MBFW Madrid’s commitment to nurturing new voices in fashion.
The EGO Showroom
Established as a space to celebrate innovation and discovery of new talent in Spanish fashion, the showroom presented 14 standout designers, many of whom are embracing sustainable practices, including the use of deadstock fabrics and local production methods. Among the highlights was Barcelona-born brand Alameda, which reworks deadstock fabrics into thoughtful capsule collections. The brand features unique two-piece sets and eclectic, asymmetric outerwear designs. BYAN showcased garments made in Spain but inspired by Indian tailoring, an influence drawn from founder Andrea Moragues’ time in India, where the brand was first conceptualised. Their aim is to highlight Spanish craftsmanship through timeless pieces with a focus on menswear tailoring. Devol Studio, based in Alicante, impressed with their creative upcycling of everyday garments, transforming them into innovative, fashion-forward designs. Paola Molet presented beautifully tailored suit jackets and shirts that reimagined classic silhouettes. With a focus on pleating and oversized forms, the grand created striking genderless garments. Finally, The Curiousers stood out with their bohemian collection of one-of-a-kind, handmade pieces. Characterised by bright patterns, oversized collars and cinched waistlines, the collection captured the playful innovation of an exciting new brand.
Throughout the remainder of the IFEMA Madrid program, an exclusive lineup of designers presented collections ranging from refined haute couture to contemporary craftsmanship, showcasing both the heritage and innovation of Spanish fashion. Established fashion houses shared the stage with emerging talent, creating a dynamic dialogue between tradition and modernity. A vibrant blend of styles, voices and storytelling cemented MBFW Madrid as a definitive showcase of the country’s most compelling talent. Amidst this diverse lineup, several collections proved especially reflective of this spirit of creativity and evolution.
Yolancris: Back to Boho
Yolancris’ Back to Boho collection is conceived as a thoughtful tribute to the brand’s bohemian roots, reinterpreted through the lens of haute couture craftsmanship. The ready-to-wear collection features carefully layered sheer and opaque fabrics, delicate lace details, and considered colour placement, resulting in an elegant selection of ethereal pieces.
Isabel Sanchis: Japón Vivo
Isabel Sanchis debuted Japón Vivo, a collection that explores the interplay between traditional Japanese aesthetics and contemporary design. Referencing Japanese ash trees and mural-style prints on the fabrics, as well as Japanese-inspired headwear, the collection also featured bold silhouettes crafted through precise, structured tailoring. Copious layers of draped fabric were artfully combined to create striking, cohesive looks. This ready-to-wear collection captivated an audience of industry peers, along with both local and international press.
Making its debut at IFEMA, PARIS/64, a high-quality Spanish leather handbag and accessories brand, presented a curated selection of pieces from its latest collection. The brand highlighted its handcrafted approach by featuring live demonstrations from in-house artisans, offering a glimpse into the techniques used in the creation of each bag. This appearance also marked the launch of their very own factory in Illueca in 2024. Founded in 2019, PARIS/64 falls into the category of self-proclaimed “quiet luxury,” with a firm commitment to ethical and responsible manufacturing processes, according to founder María.
The 40th anniversary of MBFW Madrid not only honoured its rich legacy but also reaffirmed its forward-looking vision. This season’s shows stood as testament to Spanish fashion’s evolution, balancing heritage craftsmanship with innovation, and giving space to both iconic names and exciting new voices. Its ongoing support for emerging designers, seen through platforms like the EGO showroom, cemented its commitment to nurturing the next generation of talent. MBFW Madrid has positioned itself as more than a national event, it is now a key player on the international fashion stage, proving that Spanish fashion rightfully holds a place among the global players.
